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Measure the mechanical properties of leather and textiles

Learn about the different methods used by a Texture Analyser to assess the mechanical properties of leather and textiles.

Why measure the mechanical properties of leather and textiles? How a Texture Analyser can be applied leather and textile mechanical property measurement? Typical measurements Typical graphs indicating relevant mechanical property parameters Typical product test and graph Case studies Probes and attachments for measuring the mechanical properties of leather and textiles Test methods Using the Texture Analyser for new leather and textile material and product ideas
Samples of different coloured leathers

Why measure the mechanical properties of leather and textiles?

The measurement of mechanical properties in leather and textiles is indispensable to the global textiles and leather industries, encompassing millions of workers and intricate processes that transform raw materials into finished clothing, footwear, and related products.

Mechanical testing, conducted with a Texture Analyser, ensures consistent product quality at all stages, from raw materials to finished goods.

These tests, which include tear resistance, compressive strength, tensile strength, and puncture resistance, provide valuable data for product development, routine process testing, and quality control. Standard methods, although not compulsory, serve as essential guidelines for meeting requirements and safety regulations, specifying conditioning processes, test instruments, and conditions for repeatability across laboratories.

Alternatively, tailored tests can be developed to focus on specific properties or quality issues, with bespoke probes and attachments designed to support material testing requirements.

In essence, the measurement of mechanical properties in leather and textiles is a linchpin for delivering products that meet high market expectations, ensuring strength and flexibility for their intended purpose while preventing faulty products from entering the market.

Person using hands to assess the texture of leather
Person using hands to stretch fabric of trousers
Person assessing the softness of a woollen material with their hands
Person using hands to assess the texture of leather
Person using hands to stretch fabric of trousers
Person assessing the softness of a woollen material with their hands

How a Texture Analyser can be applied leather and textile mechanical property measurement?

In the manufacture and development of leather and textiles, mechanical properties play a pivotal role in determining product quality, comfort, longevity, and overall performance. Utilising a Texture Analyser to measure these properties offers valuable insights and advantages:

  • Quality assurance and control: Through measurements such as tensile strength, tear resistance, and stretchability, manufacturers can consistently uphold the quality of leather and textile products across different batches.
  • Material development and innovation: By gauging the effects of different tanning methods on leather, or analysing the mechanical properties of blended or novel textile fibres, a Texture Analyser aids in the creation of innovative materials with tailored properties.
  • Durability and wear analysis: Determining properties like abrasion resistance and pilling can predict how leather and textile products might wear over time, informing care instructions and expected product lifespan.
  • Comfort evaluation: Factors like fabric softness, stretchability, and drape influence the comfort of clothing. Quantitative measurements can guide design decisions to enhance wearer comfort.
  • Validation of material claims: For products marketed with claims such as "high stretch" or "tear-resistant", empirical data from a Texture Analyser provides solid evidence to back up these assertions.
  • Optimised processing and finish: The effects of various finishes, dyeing processes, or treatments on the mechanical properties of textiles and leathers can be assessed, leading to optimized processing techniques.
  • Sustainability evaluations: With a growing emphasis on eco-friendly textiles and leather alternatives, assessing the mechanical properties of sustainable materials ensures they can effectively replace or outperform traditional counterparts.
  • Regulatory and standards compliance: Certain industries or regions may set specific standards for material properties, especially for safety gear or children's clothing. Consistent testing ensures products remain compliant.
  • Predictive modelling: Understanding the mechanical properties can help manufacturers predict how textiles and leathers will perform under specific conditions, such as extended sun exposure or frequent laundering.
  • Tailored product development: Different applications (e.g., upholstery versus apparel) have distinct mechanical requirements. Testing allows manufacturers to develop products that meet these specific needs.
  • Economic efficiency: By understanding and optimising the mechanical properties of textiles and leathers, manufacturers can avoid over- or under-engineering products, leading to cost savings and resource efficiency.
  • Feedback for raw material suppliers: Regular testing can provide feedback to fibre or hide suppliers regarding desired quality specifications and any observed variances.

Integrating a Texture Analyser into the manufacture and development process of leather and textiles equips producers with a wealth of empirical data. This data informs decision-making, fosters innovation, ensures quality and compliance, and ultimately leads to superior products that meet consumer and industry demands.

Typical measurements

A Texture Analyser can be equipped with a variety of probes and fixtures tailored to evaluate several mechanical properties specific to leather and textiles. For these materials, the following properties can often be assessed:

Tensile strength and elongation

This quantifies the maximum force a textile or leather can withstand while being stretched before breaking and the percentage elongation at the break.

Puncture and penetration resistance

Assesses the force required to puncture the textile or leather with a pointed object.

Elasticity and stretchability

Understanding the stretch and recovery properties of elastomeric fibres or fabrics.

Abrasion resistance

Analysing the wear resistance of materials when subjected to repeated rubbing.

Compressibility

For padded textiles or leather goods, assessing how materials respond to compressive forces.

Abrasion resistance

Determines how well the textile or leather can withstand surface wear due to rubbing or friction.

Compression and recovery

Measures how a material responds to compression and how well it recovers its shape afterward.

Adhesion of finish
ISO/BS/EN/ASTM/ISO/CEN/SATRA Standard Methods
Tear/burst resistance

Evaluating the force required to initiate or propagate a tear in fabrics, indicative of durability. Baumann tear tests are possible.

Stitch line tear/stitch tear resistance

Measures the strength of seams in textile products to ensure durability.

Flexural rigidity

Testing the stiffness of fabrics in bending, which relates to drape and comfort. The strength of the material when bent also evaluates its resistance to deformation under a bending load.

Peel strength

For laminated textiles or leather, determining the strength of the bond between layers.

Frictional properties

Understanding how textiles feel (smoothness, slipperiness) and interact with other surfaces.

Creep and relaxation

Observing how a material deforms under constant stress over time (creep) or how stress decreases over time under constant strain (relaxation).

Leather loop compression
Bagginess

Understanding these mechanical properties is crucial for fashion designers, manufacturers, quality control professionals, and materials researchers in the textiles and leather industry. Accurate measurements aid in ensuring product quality, durability, user comfort, and meeting industry standards.

Typical graphs indicating relevant mechanical property parameters

Graph showing measurement of tensile properties of leather using Tensile Grips
Measurement of tensile properties of leather using Tensile Grips
Graph showing measurement of leather loop compression using the Leather Loop Rig
Measurement of leather loop compression using the Leather Loop Rig

Typical product test and graph

Case studies

Whether its providing the solution for PSG Institute of Advanced Studies to profile the texture of their kombucha leather or offering a method for the Spanish National Research Council to measure the wear behaviour of wool fabrics, a materials testing instrument is adaptable and flexible in its application to measure the bespoke mechanical properties of your product and then enable its quality to be controlled in your manufacturing to guarantee consistency and customer satisfaction.

With deep expertise in the physical property measurement of materials, we’re well equipped to support innovation in this sector – just ask our customers.

Probes and attachments for measuring the mechanical properties of leather and textiles

A wide range of probes and attachments can be integrated with our instruments, allowing testing to be precisely adapted to the material or product under evaluation. Applications include biaxial tensile tests to compare leather strength and distension of grain, stitch resistance tests to assess finished textile strength or loop tests to measure compression properties of leather. 

Over the years, we have collaborated with leading scientists and organisations across diverse industries to design and refine attachments that meet highly specific testing requirements. When a suitable solution does not already exist, we develop one – expanding our portfolio of Community Registered Designs and reinforcing our commitment to innovation in solving complex testing challenges.

The examples provided illustrate a selection of specialised attachments and commonly performed measurements within this application area. This list is not exhaustive; a wide range of additional options are available for the testing of leather and textiles. All instruments in the Texture Analyser range can be used to perform the tests described.

Bagginess Test Rig

Meets the CEN Standard for determining bagginess of leather with creep and stress relaxation properties after repeated loading. Example standard: EN14689.

Lastometer/Ball Burst Rig

This is also known as the 'Ball Burst Test' and identifies the strength and distension of the grain. Example standard: ISO 3378.

Stitch Line Jig

Measures the strength of upper or lining material at the stitch line of footwear originating from either single/multiple holes in the sample. Example standard: BS 51319.

Leather Loop Test Rig

Quantifies the stiffness or flexibility of a sample before and after repetitive testing.

Tensile Test (Strip method)

Measures tensile strength of ravelled or wet fabrics. Example standards: ISO 13934-1, ASTM D5035, ISO 3376, ASTM D2209.

Single Edge Tear/Trouser Tear

Example standards: ISO 3377-1, ASTM D2261.

Slot Tear Rig

The slot tear test/Baumann Tear Test measures the force to tear a slotted sample apart at a constant speed. Example standard: ISO 3377-2.

T Peel Test for Leather Adhesion

Example standard: ISO 11339.

90° Leather Adhesion Rig

Provides determination of the adhesion of the finish to the leather. Example standard: ISO 11644.

Removal force of attached components e.g. buttons

Example standard: CEN/TR 16792:2014 (E).

Stitch Tear Resistance – Parallel to stitches

Example standard: ISO 23910.

Stitch Tear Resistance – Perpendicular to stitches

Example standard: SATRA TM180.

Tensile Test (grab method)

Measures tensile strength with fabric overhanging gripped region. Example standards ISO 13934-2, ASTM D2208.

Textile Burst Test

Example standard: ASTM D3787.

Other tensile tests

Applying force to certain regions of the sample to create failure.

Test methods

Exponent Connect software includes a comprehensive range of test methods for leather and textile products , all instantly accessible at the click of a button. We streamline your texture testing process, ensuring faster access to methods and ready-to-use analysis files for your product properties.

Using the Texture Analyser for new leather and textile material and product ideas

The leather and textile industries are constantly evolving, integrating sustainability, technological advancements, and novel materials.

Here are some of the newer ingredient and product ideas in leather and textile research, development, and production and a typical academic reference to show how the Texture Analyser has already being applied:

Smart textiles

Textiles embedded with technology such as sensors, LEDs, and conductive fibres for wearables and health monitoring.

View published examples using the Texture Analyser

Spider silk and bio-synthetics

Bio-engineered silk proteins that can be produced by yeast, bacteria, or other microorganisms.

View published examples using the Texture Analyser

Vegan or bio-based leather

This includes leather made from mushrooms (mycelium), pineapple fibres (Piñatex), and lab-grown leather using yeast, bacteria, and other microorganisms.

3D Knitting

Computer-controlled knitting machines create garments directly, reducing waste.

Shape memory alloys in textiles

Textiles that can change shape in response to various stimuli, e.g., temperature.

Recycled textiles

Using recycled PET bottles, discarded fishing nets, and other waste materials to produce new fabrics.

Self-healing fabrics

Materials that can repair minor damages on their own.

View published examples using the Texture Analyser

Lab-grown leather

Bio-fabricated leather produced using cellular agriculture, without the need to raise and slaughter animals.

Biodegradable textiles

Fabrics designed to break down naturally at the end of their lifecycle.

Nano-textiles

Using nanotechnology to impart properties like water repellence, UV protection, antimicrobial effects, and self-cleaning.

E-textiles

Fabrics embedded with electronics, sensors, and conductive threads for functionalities beyond traditional textiles.

Phase change materials (PCMs)

Materials that absorb, store, or release heat as they change phase, integrated into textiles for temperature regulation.

Contents

  • Why measure the mechanical properties of leather and textiles?
  • How a Texture Analyser can be applied leather and textile mechanical property measurement?
  • Typical measurements
  • Typical graphs indicating relevant mechanical property parameters
  • Typical product test and graph
  • Case studies
  • Probes and attachments for measuring the mechanical properties of leather and textiles
  • Test methods
  • Using the Texture Analyser for new leather and textile material and product ideas

MORE INFORMATION

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